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Author Topic: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style  (Read 872 times)

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Offline Sidi950

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #15 on: June 07, 2020, 04:57:45 am »
These will work just fine..
A Scotsman once told me " The best glass to drink whiskey from, is one daesna leak "

"Anyone can make it Complicated, Its Pure Genius to make it Simple"

Offline srinath

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #16 on: June 07, 2020, 08:28:06 am »
Yes they will - with a bushing. You need SCR spec bushing to be ideal, those bolts are 10mm. The R bushing is 12mm/ .5". That's ideal to fit a Harley 1" riser and 1" bars. So R spec will take that.

Your fittings are 7/8th - so IMHO you should - well that you posted is fine - however these are beefier - and I'll tell you how that's important in a sec -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-1-8-28mm-Universal-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Mount-Riser-Clamp-CNC-Aluminium-Fine/153161141222?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Take the stud out by gripping it and ripping it.
Then drill through the bottom part to 10mm dia. Then get allen head SS 10mm bolts and drill the top with an end mill to seat the allen bolt but leave it sticking through the hole the bar has to go through.
Then grind a crescent shape in the top of the allen head so that it cant turn when the bar is installed and clamped down.

This bar will work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fat-Bar-Handle-Bars-1-1-8th-Dirt-Bike-A85/362871093242?hash=item547ccd77fa:g:goAAAOSw7ypeEBRw

Buy a new bar sorry that was the first one I found.

I'll put a pic of it shortly, what I explained sounds complicated but really its not. Now when you can slice up that thick a$$ metal plate.

Cool.
Srinath.

Offline srinath

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #17 on: June 07, 2020, 09:18:50 am »
Modded riser blocks. With the studs that are pulled out.
The reason for this is - if the thing came unscrewed, your bolt will still run through the triple and hold it from coming completely apart while riding, giving you enough time to get it to safety. Better yet, drill the thing for a cotter key and/or install a metal locking nut.

Now you see that little bolt part sticking in the hole where the bar would go - just grind that same cresent arc in it. So when you install the bar the bolt wont turn as you tighten the nut under the triple.

Cool.
Srinath.
« Last Edit: June 07, 2020, 09:20:38 am by srinath »

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Offline srinath

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #18 on: June 07, 2020, 09:23:53 am »
When all fitted up - Looks like this - install washers etc etc This pic was taken just from parts I had lying about.
The bar is a 1 1/8 center 7/8th outer ends taper bar by answer.
Its sitting in an R spec bushing which is in the triple.
You should make a whole bushing set out of Delrin or use a C spec bushing.

Cool.
Srinath.

Offline srinath

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #19 on: June 07, 2020, 09:53:23 am »
BTW when you cut a bushing - your triple clamp hole is like an hour glass. Yamaha cheated a little by making a thin walled steel tube, then rubber then the inside sleeve of 12mm or 10 mm ID.
The OD of that thin walled pipe is larger than the ID of the waist of the hourglass in the triple. The wonder of thin walled steel with rubber on the inside is that it will "squish" through that hole and bulge back on the other side. It creates its own "hour glass" shape and stays in place like a fat dude wearing a tight belt.

You cant typically do that with Delrin. You're better off making 2 cones that come together and are held in place with the bolt and there's still a little air between them. That's how the normal bushings are - look in the pic of the studs I pulled out - the rubber bushings are what were supplied with it. You need just like those but larger and - well cut to the correct size of the hole in the triple - that rubber one is far far from.

Cool.
Srinath.

Offline lunkhead

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #20 on: June 07, 2020, 02:39:26 pm »
Keep in mind that triple clamp is cast, not billet. The square edge of an allen bolt head tightened against that relatively soft, brittle, webbed aluminium taper is gonna try to split it open.
C-SPƎC

Offline Sidi950

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #21 on: June 07, 2020, 10:42:22 pm »
You Both have valid points... But I am not going down that Track..
This method I am using has no Movement, Laterally or Torsional . Everything is held in place by compression.
A Scotsman once told me " The best glass to drink whiskey from, is one daesna leak "

"Anyone can make it Complicated, Its Pure Genius to make it Simple"

Offline rjay420

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #22 on: June 08, 2020, 02:50:16 am »
Hey lads - just bought a brand new C-spec last week and I've been trying to figure out how to best replace the handlebars ever since. Glad this has popped up recently!
I'm at the point where I'm considering buy a new R-spec upper tree - as the riser holes are flat and I can buy the bushings specific to it - for around $200 Australian dollars.
The C-spec tree riser holes have a weird hourglass tapering to them, so I'm not sure how I go about finding bushings to fit that exact space.

Sinrath you photos look like the perfect solution - are those bushings specific to the C-spec upper tree holes or just have a random taper that should squish down and fit into them?
I'm thinking of just getting some 2" fork extensions and moving the clip-ons up above the triple tree for now, just to see if that helps my riding position, if not I'm gna go balls deep and try to do a full blown C-spec to R-spec conversion.

Cheers guys, sorry if I'm hijacking.

Offline Sidi950

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #23 on: June 08, 2020, 04:47:22 am »
Not at all rjay... We're all here to learn..  I saw those risers that Sinrath showed, on AliExp.. and thought it was a good idea. Except, I test rode a Bolt Std with its squishy , moving, handle bar. I didn't enjoy it. Ended up with the C... The more I ride it, the more I like it. It ripped through the traffic the other night, like a hot knife through butter. Something that my big bike can't do.
A Scotsman once told me " The best glass to drink whiskey from, is one daesna leak "

"Anyone can make it Complicated, Its Pure Genius to make it Simple"

Offline rjay420

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #24 on: June 08, 2020, 05:36:28 am »
Yeah I definitely don't mind the seat and control position of the C, especially the higher clearance, but being 5'8 I feel like I'm way too hunched over and leaning on my wrists. I measured up the clip-ons and where I think the bars will sit once I move them to above the triple tree and I think it will be the best of both worlds! More relaxed position but keeping the agility of a more sports touring posture. If they get here this week I'll have pics up on Monday... posture before and after as well. Definitely don't regret getting C, not only because it's a shit load cheaper than the R and standard but the styling is awesome too imo.

Offline srinath

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #25 on: June 08, 2020, 07:58:15 am »
Rjay - These would get you a lot less reach, and if you fit em on top of the triple it would be even closer.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/31-33-37-38-39-41-43-46-47-48-50-51-53-54-55mm-CNC-Clamp-Fork-Tube-Regular-Riser/253448058696?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

User electrosloth has fit one of these on an R spec. He had to use HD parts custom made to go 7/8th to 1", but C spec is all 7/8th np worry there, you just need to put 7/8th tubes.

Sidi - in your drawing the "cavity" is where the bushing does. In fact you can make em out of hard plastic like Delrin and drill em offset enough to take 1 piece like this -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-1-1-8-Aluminum-HandleBar-Fat-Bar-Risers-Mount-Clamp-For-KTM-125-530-00-15/111961338365?hash=item1a116a71fd:g:s2IAAOSw-8paYFTP

When the risers are 1 piece you have them even more firm. I suspect those are 96mm spacing, not sure, but bolt and a lot of jap bikes are all 100mm, I didn't want to chance that it may not fit.

The squishiness is due to the rubber in the stock bushing. Delrin is a perfect material to make them for eliminating that and you can use the top and bottom plate as well, also if you drill it offset enough I'm sure you can use HD risers which are spaced 3.5" apart. But you have to spacer sleeve the thing down at the bar to 7/8th. Cos I don't know of any one who sells tapered bars from 1" to 7/8th, they only have 1 1/8 to 7/8th.

Cool.
Srinath.

Offline Sdaniels

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #26 on: June 08, 2020, 12:32:20 pm »
You Both have valid points... But I am not going down that Track..
This method I am using has no Movement, Laterally or Torsional . Everything is held in place by compression.

This is exactly what I was suggesting earlier.  No reason it won't work.
2015 C-spec

Offline srinath

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #27 on: June 08, 2020, 01:03:00 pm »
You Both have valid points... But I am not going down that Track..
This method I am using has no Movement, Laterally or Torsional . Everything is held in place by compression.

This is exactly what I was suggesting earlier.  No reason it won't work.



If the stock R spec bushing setup was squishy - no reason to think a friction and compression setup will hold up under the rigor of running down the road hitting all our wonderful potholes.
BTW I should also say I have been making handlebars and related parts for 20+ yrs. I refuse to run a bolt from under the triple clamp to the riser - as all Harleys do, and a "stud" installed in the bottom of the riser like the SCR was - nope not a valid solution.
The only way to do this - plates are all fine as an add on - take out empty air where all of it can go sideways (literally) with plastic or rubber - put the plates on top and bottom - in fact now that the plates have been made, the rubber in the bushing will not wiggle cos there's still the friction and compression.

I am not surprised the setup doesn't wiggle now - put a riser set on it and put a bar on it - now you have 16" - 18" of leverage. See if you cant make stuff move in the cavity ?

IMHO - Delrin bushings are the simplest - but if the plates are the OP's favorite way to do it - put a bushing of some type - C spec or Delrin in the cavity and put the plates on it. That air in the middle = a likely disaster waiting to happen. Bolt running upward = disaster #2. Imagine if that bolt came loose and fell out. You got nothing keeping it on it. If it was a nut - the wobble would be stupid but your bolt will keep the handlebar from free spinning on the triple. That's why jap bikes never run the bolt upward.

Cool.
Srinath.

Offline rjay420

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #28 on: June 08, 2020, 05:08:54 pm »
Hey sinrath, that's awesome thanks mate, I wouldn't have even thought to look for something like this! Saves me $200 buying the R-spec triple clamp, I ordered the 2" fork extensions that just screw into the top of the existing fork to move the clips, but if I go the bobber conversion route I can just use these on the fork extensions and put any bar now. Perfect  8)

Offline srinath

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Re: Top Clamp Mod From Caffe Style
« Reply #29 on: June 08, 2020, 07:32:14 pm »
Most of the parts I have lying about I got free from various denizens of this forum - Evallade and Lunkhead are 2 big ones.
Given that I have made handlebars and related crap since 1996 - I'd suggest = really I don't make any crap to sell right now BTW - so I'd only point you to Chinese crap or preferably American made stuff

Anyway thanks - Please ask here and I don't see every post, please pm me or something  -I'll try and respond.

Anyway - glad I helped - though I was posting for the OP.
Wish I could make those cool bushings/risers LOL.

Cool.
Srinath.