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Author Topic: Heel Shifter  (Read 414 times)

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Offline DrM

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Heel Shifter
« on: May 16, 2021, 06:48:38 pm »
Couldn't find any commercial heel shifter products for the Bolt -- so I made my own:

Pic 1: Concept
Pic 2: Prototype
Pic 3: Side view
Pic 4: Top view

Notes: 
1. If I had to do it all over again I might make the heel shifter 7" long instead of 6".
2. the 25/32" hole in the heel shifter presses on to the outer side of the pivot barrel of the toe shifter.  I pressed it on with a vise.
3. the connecting rod has to come off the splined shift shaft in order to be able to put the toe shifter pivot barrel back on the pivot shaft.
4. the The circular panel with the iron cross on it also has to come off in order to provide sufficient clearance to force the pivot barrel back on its shaft.
5. A corner of the footpeg mount will interfere with the proper placement of the mounted heel shifter.  Grind that interfering corner away.
6. Putting the mounted toe/heel shifter on the pivot shaft is made difficult because of very tight clearances.  You might have to use a little force.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2021, 10:07:04 pm by DrM »



Offline DrM

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Re: Heel Shifter
« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2021, 06:57:50 pm »
Pic 3
« Last Edit: May 16, 2021, 07:03:16 pm by DrM »

Offline DrM

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Re: Heel Shifter
« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2021, 07:00:10 pm »
Pic 4

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Offline dogbrained

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Re: Heel Shifter
« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2021, 07:48:25 pm »
Once again I wish this forum had a "Like" option.
Good job!
Protect Your Boys.

Offline DrM

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Re: Heel Shifter
« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2021, 11:48:06 pm »
Once again I wish this forum had a "Like" option.
Good job!
Thanks! 

I might add a few more pointers for anyone considering doing this:
1) I had some time before installed the SSCustom Cycle 6" Forward foot controls, so that affected my clearances some for removing/re-installing the OEM toe-shift lever from the bike.  It is necessary to remove the OEM toe-shift lever in order to install the heel-shift lever onto the outside part of the pivot barrel of the OEM toe-shift lever.

2) Ultimately, I found that loosening the two bolts holding on the foot peg gave me more clearance to manipulate the toe-shift lever off and back on with the heel-shift lever installed on it. It wasn't necessary to completely remove the foot peg from the bike.

3) The aluminum bar I was using (from Xometry.com) to make the heel-shifter was 0.3 inches thick and that thickness caused me to incur some interference with the footpeg swivel mount, which I addressed by filing off some of the interfering face, as well as filing off some more of the weld bead on the OEM toe-shifter.  I also filed a bevel on the heel shift lever where it was making contact with those interference points.  Anyone starting this project might be able to avoid such interference by using 0.25" thick plate and pressing it as farther on to the pivot barrel of the OEM toe-shifter lever.

4) The heel-shift lever can be adjusted as to the angle to place it for your heel to best manipulate it.  This is going to vary by individual based on leg length, how thick you shoe or boot heel is, and footpeg location.  But the heel-shifter angle can also be moved by inadvertently putting too much force on it in high gear.  A some point, when you have the heel-shifter where you want it, you might want to lock its angle down.