serious problem....stripped seat...

[lunkhead]

 

[NY Andrew]

So I think this is how I’m gonna do it:

1. “Thread chase” with the tap & die kit M8 to fix/make sure the hole threads are smooth and clean.

2. Insert M8 Helicoil.

3. Install new longer M8 bolt.

4. Ride in to the sunset.


If the above fails:

1. Drill out the threads to M10 sizing.

2. Tap & die for M10.

3. Install longer M10 bolt.



That sound like I got it planned right? Lol

[DrM]

That sounds like a good plan

[lunkhead]

NO! You can't put a Helicoil in a 8×1.25 thread. You either use the thread chaser and a brand new bolt OR drill and tap for a Helicoil using the drill and special tap included in the Helicoil kit.

I suggest you try the first option before resorting to a Helicoil.

[NY Andrew]

NO! You can't put a Helicoil in a 8×1.25 thread. You either use the thread chaser and a brand new bolt OR drill and tap for a Helicoil using the drill and special tap included in the Helicoil kit.

I suggest you try the first option before resorting to a Helicoil.

Oh ok..wasn’t sure if the Helicoil insert (M8x1.25 10.8mm) May align with the grooves but I see what tours saying because if it’s already threaded for M8x1.25 a Helicoil IF I even got it to fit would actually be way less than M8x1.25.


Ok thread chase, new bolt. If that fails Helicoil.

Thanks for the help guys!! Think I got it now. Will update in 18 hours.

[srinath]

If the thing gets Okay tight - just use a longer bolt, its unlikely you get a better thread by thread chasing, thread chasing is to clean out junk from threads - you have worn or damaged threads a chaser would barely make a difference. But anyway you can run a longer bolt in reverse direction and use a nut on this side. That way everytime you need to take off the seat, you're not damaging the threads further.

That bolt is only there to keep the seat from lifting off while riding. So don't pull a Jesse James - I think his 3rd or 4th bike build episode he was flying through Utah somewhere 400 miles from LA and 600 miles from Sturgis 3 days late on his build and he stands up and loses the custom leather seat. So when moving at speed, keep your butt on the seat - d-uh.

Cool.
Srinath.

[lunkhead]

A chaser will make a slightly damaged thread stronger and straighter than a tap. It has minimal carving of the metal but forces the metal to become denser like your standard rolled thread on bolts. A completely stripped out hole obviously has no chance of repair but if the chaser can get in there and follow what threads are left (use plenty of lube), it stands a chance. A good chaser won't be be made out a brittle steel like a tap that must hold an edge. It's tougher like a high grade bolt. Brute force, lotsa lube.

[srinath]

I have an idea - the electrical repair man in me got the idea here LOL.

Take a steel bolt and run it backwards - make sure you have the right length etc etc so it is easy for you to put the seat it a bit crooked and slide it onto it etc.

Then put solder flux on the threads and put it in the nut.

Then put the bike on its right side onto some used car tires and using a soldering iron - one of em high power electrical ones, melt a bunch of lead into the hole from. The flux will wick molten lead and you're gonna have a nice fuse job done with lead holding the threads for the part that's not working, and if you have any issue you'd have no trouble taking it out cos lead will give when you try to break the bond.

Second idea.
Get a mondo powerful ring magnet and use it as a "washer" and thread it in using a bolt of the right length obviously so you can wiggle the seat onto it and use a nut on the outside. The magnet and the threads that are left will keep the bolt from spinning when you undo the nut.

Basically the lead or the magnet are only to keep the bolt from spinning when you screw on the nut to hold the seat.

Nothing like a weird problem to get the entire forum on your case huh.

Cool.
Srinath.

[NY Andrew]

Thanks for the further responses guys, YOU ROCK!!!!

Fantastic news. So I was about to thread chase but the tool wasn't long enough to accomplish that...

After some of you shared how the seat doesn't need to be CRAZY secured and not tightened by hulk himself, I opted to see how a longer M8 bolt threaded.

It threaded beautifully like the other shorter ones did I shared on here previously.

I decided since the bolt goes to the end where I'm sure at least 40% of the threads are undamaged, that I'll just install a bolt, throw in some washers to fill the extra empty space gap with the seat bracket and frame hole, taped them up so they don't fall all over the place when I remove the bolt, and tightened with full forearm strength (not bicep/shoulder strength) and it seems super secure!!!!!

So who knows, this may fail down the road, 1 year, hundreds of miles, 20 years, thousands of miles, but I now have this new knowledge and other tools to solve the issue if the need arises and will definitely update here if anything changes.

Sincerely wanna thank all you guys for sharing your expertise. Love these forums and love everyone sharing their trade skills!

Oh, and I can confirm that the Mustang Standard Touring Solo Seat covered up damn near 2.5" of vertical cabling under the seat and sits FLUSH/LEVEL vs the OEM seat was literally on top of the cables and the rubber bumpers were inches from leveling out! This was a huge concern of mine.

All worked out in the end!!!!! We live to ride another day!!

[DrM]

You can also snip/cut/saw the extra length off that new bolt so its the same length as the old bolt -- and not have to use any washers.

[NY Andrew]

You can also snip/cut/saw the extra length off that new bolt so its the same length as the old bolt -- and not have to use any washers.

Thought about it, but if I don’t cut it straight enough, I could risk further stripping/damaging the remaining decent threading I got.

Also like the extra length because it’s a bit easier to feed in with my fingers and reach.

[lunkhead]

Can't you replace the bolts with "permanent" studs and just use nuts? It would make life much easier since you won't ever have to deal with the mangled threads or alignment problems once they're in. Much like Srinth's idea of running a bolt thru the opposite end of the welded on nut but a bit more refined looking. Just locktite two long bolts in there and cut off the heads to make your own studs. Or if you use pre-made studs, temporarily lock two nuts together to install them.

[srinath]

You managed to get that nut that was welded in outta there ?
I was suggesting to punch through or cut off that little acorn part, run a bolt from that acorn side and use a mondo power magnet in place of the three washers and put a nut on the seat ear.
Anyway - just ride the thing its not going anywhere now.
Cool.
Srinath.

[lunkhead]

Here are studs I made from SS bolts. It was the only solution in this case.

[NY Andrew]

My only issue with that is it’s hard to get through to where the nut is from the other side of the bike due to angles and cables.

If the threads ever do fully take a shit I could go the route of a SMALL bolt (because the nut hole is small) through the opposite end like you guys are saying if need be I guess.


No I did not remove that nut. I see what you’re saying, again, only issue with that is having to reach that bolt head from the opposite end with wires and the angle making it difficult. If it was easy I’d have done it, trust me.

Studs aren’t a bad idea, but again, sorta need to get through to that other side which was difficult.


Good to know there’s many other options if this fails!