Synchronizing Fuel Injection

[Austinhyd]

That was pretty bad out of whack. I'm going to have to do mine after seeing that. What size tubing did you use?

[Bozzly]

Man, I have to learn to do this. I do all my own maintenance but i have never synchronized throttle bodies before.

[Frosty1947]

I used 3/16 ID clear plastic.  As long as it fits snugly over the port nipples it's OK.  Good luck.  I was surprised that mine was so far off straight out of the factory.  It might just be that this differential pressure test is much more sensitive that reading a vacuum gauge.

BTW- I first tried using a gauge and it was completely unreadable.  The needle fluttered all over the place.

[ShakerNorm]

Way to go, Frosty - and thanks for the pics! Looks GREAT and very helpful.  And the blurb out of the Maintenance Manual was just what we needed!

As for being out of whack - they probably did it with gauges at the factory similar to what the manual shows, while the tube is MUCH more sensitive. From the Factory, they probably have a bit of  tolerance, too, not to mention that engine break-in will make it change, as well.

[Austinhyd]

Thanks Frosty.

[kraven]

I used 3/16 ID clear plastic.  As long as it fits snugly over the port nipples it's OK.  Good luck.  I was surprised that mine was so far off straight out of the factory.  It might just be that this differential pressure test is much more sensitive that reading a vacuum gauge.

BTW- I first tried using a gauge and it was completely unreadable.  The needle fluttered all over the place.

Don't hold it against Yamaha. As the rings seat and the engine breaks in, the cylinders can have variance like that between them. This is why it's important to synch the cylinders with an accurate tool.
I've done a lot of BMW and Honda twins too, and they generally need to be synched straight off the sales floor too.

Norm's tube setup is how people did it for years and it works.
If you need or want a gadget to do it, I'd suggest a Twinmax. http://www.twinmax.co.uk/

[ShakerNorm]

Thanks for the credit, Kraven - but that setup was around a LONG time before I got my first bike... LOL

I'll be balancing mine today - and I know I'm going to need to adjust it - I can feel the difference between when I rode it away from the dealer - to how it feels today. It's quite a bit rougher right now.

As has been mentioned - during break-in all the valves, rings and other moving parts actually seat together and seal better and slide better, so the engine works a little differently (hopefully better) than it did at the factory. But that also means that it need to be balanced again - although this should be a rare occurrence from now on.

Standard break-in, but I was actually pleasantly surprised how clean my oil seemed when I drained it.  Unfortunately, I drained a good portion of it all over my garage floor.....     I need a shallower drain pan that fits under the bike better...

[Frosty1947]

When you resync I recommend starting from scratch like the SM suggests.  Turn both screws fully in and then back out each 1 1/4 turns and adjust the highest vacuum port only (probably the front).  To drop the vacuum, turn the screw out (CCW).

I just re-did mine and the machine is running as smooth as a babys butt.

[kraven]

Yeah, the quality control for engine assembly is orders of magnitude better than back in what people feel were the glory days of Japanese twins and fours (the 80's- XS1100, 650, and XJ's). So, the engines that pass QC and make it to a Bolt in your garage should be nice and clean inside when you change the oil.

I actually enjoy doing synchs on twins since it so noticeably improves rideability. (usually)

[ShakerNorm]

I was surprised - mine was almost dead on when I checked it.... as I blipped the throttle, the two columns would swap places - but only around 1/4", and VERY slowly....  Makes me a happy camper

Just swapping out the oil, the engine seems happier.... clean oil = happy engine = happy rider

[kimtony77]

Can we get a moderator to "sticky" posts like these please? The other one is the list of compatible oil filters.. Some of us rely on the forums to help us out, and it's a real task coming back to find posts like this when it's time to refer back to em.

[ctufano]

Pretty cool. I'm half tempted to do the service stuff myself after reading these reviews.

I've only changed my oil in my car once on my own, but it is only a pain because I have to drop the skirt on my G37 (tons of screws) and jack it up. With the bike, it seems I don't even need a jack!

Thanks for the write up

[Frosty1947]

Pretty cool. I'm half tempted to do the service stuff myself after reading these reviews.

I've only changed my oil in my car once on my own, but it is only a pain because I have to drop the skirt on my G37 (tons of screws) and jack it up. With the bike, it seems I don't even need a jack!

Thanks for the write up

If you use an oil pan with a depth of 4 In or less you won't need a jack.  Warm the oil and remove the drain bolt and let it drain right into the oil pan while sitting on the side stand.  I always change the oil filter when changing oil.  As they say, 3 quarts of clean oil plus 1 quart of dirty oil equals 4 quarts of dirty oil.

[mako4kd]

Is there more to this procedure? Thread is over a month old and the SM exerts are gone.  I just reset to baseline then adjust while idle?........and done...

[Atticus]

That's awsomesomly simple and clever