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Author Topic: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required  (Read 1256 times)

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Offline Saadi

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C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« on: November 10, 2019, 09:21:28 pm »
For anyone doing this conversion, here is what you need:

1. Bushing
You can't buy R spec bushing on their own and the YZF bushing do not fit. I used Shock Eye Mount Bushing kit (suspension part of cars, 4x4), which is made of the same material as stock bushing and nicely fits the C spec triple tree. Cost $20.

2. Washers
Few 27.4 mm and 34.8 mm diameter good quality steel washers. Cost $2

3. 7/8 inch handlebar
C spec controls will only 7/8 inch handlebars. To avoid cable extensions, opt for something like this (street low) https://www.renthal.com/moto/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2003.

4. Suitable Risers 
Any style you like but they shouldn't be extra tall to avoid extensions. The base (where they screw in the triple tree) must be round and this diameter should ideally be few mm less than the diameter of your conical bushing where they are widest.

5. Time, patience and tools 
This is not super easy so take your time. You will need a drill, Phillips + flat head screw drivers, can of WD-40, 27mm socket to undo the main triple tree nut. Assortment of hex set to undo typical sized screws found on this motorcycle. A car or motorcycle jack to lift the front wheel off the ground 4 inches or so.


Procedure
(see attached images as well)
1. Ride till you are almost out of gas (or siphon it out). Let the engine cool down.
2. Remove the fuel tank (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUuWb6Or5AY) and seat. There are two electrical connections and three hoses to disconnect from the fuel tank.
3. You can now access both connectors that are tied to frame from the controls. Disconnect the electrical connections on the frame, unclip two cable ties holding them and completely free them from the frame.
4. Undo the brake like from master cylinder. Have a cloth handy to catch any drip as brake fluid ruins paint. Plug the open hole with a clean screw tightened by hand only. Hang the line to the breaks on the indicators using a rubber band. It is filled with fluid so try to keep it vertical.
5. Remove the bar ends and the grip from clutch. Hint: use a flat head to open the space b/w grip and bar, then spray WD-40 and work the screw driver in.
6. Undo and remove the mirrors.
7. Unclip the electric connection from clutch lever and break master cylinder. Unclip the connection from instrument cluster.
8. Only losen the screws on control enough to crack the control open a little. Wiggle them out of the hole and slide off the clips-ons. Let the clutch level hang if you didn't remove the cable. Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir. Remove the instrument cluster.
9. Undo the pinch bolts and crack open the 27mm bolt holding the triple tree but don't undo it completely. Its torqued to 80 ft-lbs I think so you need decent sized wrench.
10. Jack up the front wheel slightly. If using a car jack, fit it on the frame below the engine.
11. Undo the 27mm bolt and remove the triple tree top.
12. Use a solvent or degreaser to soak the glue holding the cover for an hour if you want to save and reuse the cover. Soak it through the holes for risers after removing the triple tree.
13. Remove the cover from triple tree and then fit the bushing.
14. If there is lots of room in the bottom after installing the bushing then add a washer 27.4mm washer but leave 1 to 2 mm of space there.
15. Whether a washer is required at the top b/w the riser and bushing depends on how much space is left there and the hardness of your bushing. You want the base of riser to have 1 to 2 mm gaps from the triple tree after everything has been tightened up and the bushing compressed. This allows some wiggle and absorbs vibrations that would otherwise be transferred to the bar if the risers are resting directly on the triple tree.
16. Install the risers using the 34.8 mm washer at the bottom. Do not fully tighten the screws but enough that risers cannot be rotated by hand.
17. Install converted triple tree and semi-tighten the pinch bolts and 27mm nut.
18. Remove the jack then fully tighten the triple tree.
19. Install your brand new handlebar on risers and tighten it down.
20. Measure where the holes for connectors should be after aligning your control by hand and then drill it. I find it easier to drill while the handlebar is on the bike but remove the handlebar and use a vice if you have one handy.
21. Undo just the handlebar mount from riser and remove your drilled handlebar.
22. Re-route cables if you need to (its pretty easy to figure out).
23. Take your handlebar and then slide the clutch lever and throttle control (still attached to bike) and the electrical control. You know the order they go in since you took them off!
24. Tighten the handlebar down on the risers.
25. Route the electric cables from controls appropriately to their connection on the frame and clip them in.
26. Unscrew the clip attaching brake line to the bottom triple tree. If you don't plan on using extensions then this clip is no longer required.
27. Route the brake line back to the reservoir on master cylinder and then attach it.
28. Tighten everything attached to the handle bar and the riser bolts under the triple tree but don't over tighten them.
29. Install the fuel tank and the seat.
30. Start the bike and go for a more comfortable ride!


NO WARRANTY PROVIDED AND RESPONSIBILITY ENTIRELY SITS WITH YOU. This info is provided as is for those who are mechanically inclined.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2019, 08:33:45 pm by Saadi »



Offline Saadi

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #1 on: November 10, 2019, 09:31:05 pm »
Images attached.

Offline Saadi

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2019, 09:32:25 pm »
More images

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Offline Bondkaye

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2019, 10:57:53 pm »
The story makes me very confused. You make it clear

Offline 7udro

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2020, 12:29:18 pm »
Very good post

Quote
You know the order they go in since you took them off!

aaaaah ha ha ha a fine humorist

Offline Shiniori27

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2020, 08:01:01 pm »
I've had a nightmare of a time looking for bushings that fit. Do you have a specific link/name of the specific "Shock Eye Mount Bushings" you ordered?
Thank you in advance.

Offline srinath

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2020, 08:22:33 am »
It might be this -
https://ironman4x4america.com/replacement-bushing-et113-1/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6PD3BRDPARIsAN8pHuEIUk_Vyx7ieIfEJBuIJslbd7d21AIMLTFT_cvXSZv7vegw_aeLBfYaAjv6EALw_wcB

Looks an awful lot like the SCR bushing I got, but SCR bushing is 10mm hole. The HD style bars and the R spec risers and bushings are 12mm or 1/2".
Now for a C spec with 7/8th bars - the 10mm bushing works better because you can get risers for 7/8' as well as those fat bar risers and aluminum renthal types for pretty good $.

But if you have the ar and are sure it fits - with 7/8th ends - then you need the right bushing for that bolt through the riser.

Cool.
Srinath.

Offline srinath

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2020, 08:26:50 am »
Or - This
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Eye-Eye_Shock_Bushings_Sleeves/Bronco_Shock_Absorbers?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6PD3BRDPARIsAN8pHuH1NyDu69SCrtH8ZC31Z-O1__n_wyRbir80tWxPrdntJigHynEnV0MaAhr_EALw_wcB

BTW I'd be worried about putting in just rubber without a metal outer sleeve but put big washers on both sides and get the sleeve cut to the right size so you get it all squished nice and it would be OK I would think.
Afterall it goes onto the shock of a truck.

Cool.
Srinath.

Offline Shiniori27

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2020, 08:30:07 am »
Thank you for the replies!
Seeing those gives me an idea of where to start experimenting.
Ill try those/something real similar and see if I can find success with my Biltwell risers/bars

Offline srinath

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #9 on: July 01, 2020, 08:35:19 am »
https://www.ebay.com/i/383070926343?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Da94bf546c583452e885bf8198104ce33%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D383070886478%26itm%3D383070926343%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DDefault

BTW the upper hole in the R spec triple is 36mm - but I have a SCR bushing lying about, I'll measure its OD - I suspect its closer to 30mm not 36.
However if I am machining one I'll take up the entire V shape in the SCR's triple with 1/2 on top 1/2 on the bottom Delrin bushing, and drill the hole 6mm offset - so you can run HD risers (3.5" spacing) and the others who have 108mm spacing as well as the other jap spacing which is 100mm. However we're a bit from there - the only place that bushing exists is in my head.

Cool.
Srinath.

Offline lunkhead

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #10 on: July 01, 2020, 10:25:55 am »
I was looking into using parts from the SR400. The bushings aren't sleeved or tapered and I don't know what size or shape hole they'll work in. I'm assuming the holes aren't tapered. Either way, I wouldn't want soft bushings.
C-SPƎC

Offline lunkhead

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #11 on: July 01, 2020, 12:08:00 pm »
Srinath, if you're going to drill holes further apart for HD parts, just fill the cavities with JB Weld, cap ends with a nice piece of aluminum, let it cure and drill on a drill press. The steel in the epoxy makes it about hard as Delrin. The epoxy part might cause some creep so I wouldn't use very tall bars.
C-SPƎC

Offline lunkhead

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #12 on: July 01, 2020, 12:26:42 pm »
Srinath, are the bushings supposed to work in the SCR or R-Spec? The C-Spec hole is different.

It needs to be like this shape but the OP doesn't give specific part number:

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.8108

Finally opened the attached files and these look the same. I would use a full length sleeve between the bolt and bushing or risers with posts for these. They're polyurethane so they can be made to fit fairly tight.
« Last Edit: July 01, 2020, 03:24:42 pm by lunkhead »
C-SPƎC

Offline srinath

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2020, 03:55:53 pm »
I don't know Lunk - I didn't post the original link - all I can say is from looking at the SCR bushings, the R spec triple with 12mm bushings, and the C spec that's on my bike. Mind you I traded the C spec (I received - for the SCR I passed on to Evallade).
I did post some random sale links - yea no idea what anything is, I'm Yet to measure my bushings.

Anyway - back to the evallade story ~6 months later evallade send me a box of goodies. In it is the R spec triple with 12mm holes in the bushings, and the SCR bushing outside lying loose - presumably he had em pushed out and the R spec ones installed - or whatever he did.

I'm not sure I'd do JB weld, cos I cant get it to seal in any situation.

But Delrin bushings drilled 1/4" offset - well that IMHO is doable, shippable and saleable - but let me see where the bushings search goes. Its pointless trying to accommodate 3.5 when 100mm bushings are available cheap as peanuts and easy as dirt.


Cool.
Srinath.

Offline srinath

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Re: C spec handlebar conversion - No extensions required
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2020, 04:18:18 pm »
Ideally on a C spec - you need to follow the taper and have a slightly softish - Delrin is perfect BTW that has 100" taper contact with an offset hole for choice of risers. In fact I'd drill it to 3/8th and let the end user determine if the 1/2" or 12mm was preferred.
The R/SCR triple seems to have some type of step and center drilled to match a different straight bore bushing - I'd almost not even bother fitting to that - anyway I am like I said yet to fit a tool in my friend's lathe so Lets leave it all as squirrels juggling knives in my head for now.

Cool.
Srinath.