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Author Topic: serious problem....stripped seat...  (Read 1237 times)

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Offline NY Andrew

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serious problem....stripped seat...
« on: June 18, 2020, 08:06:48 pm »
Received my new Mustang seat. Fit perfectly besides their tab didn't align properly. After applying some force while pushing the bolt in to bend the Mustangs seat tab and push the bolt inside the female nut threads....it's now stripped. It starts a bit, gets tough, then spins smoothly. Stripped the f*ckn seat threads. Guess I can buy a re-thread kit and hope for the best? Mentioned zip tying the seat, but damn near gave the old lady a heart attack... Anyone ever done this or have a solution? I can't ever win.


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Offline srinath

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2020, 08:31:10 pm »
I'd try out putting in a bolt there and carry a spare and keep an eye on it.
Or a nut on the back side of it and maybe a magnet to help you get it threaded on.
Cool.
Srinath.

Offline NY Andrew

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2020, 08:34:03 pm »
Only way to get nut on would be break off the OEM nut on the other side (which I tried out of pure anger and couldn't break it with a wrench.

Read a guy had this issue on a $27k Indian and used Helicoil and it worked. Guess I'll try that out with a longer bolt and washers to more easily angle and insert vs the stupidly small OEM bolt. Will update between Saturday-Monday if it worked or not...
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Offline srinath

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2020, 08:39:10 pm »
Helicoil in a steel nut is futile, you use a longer bolt and a nut on the other side. Ignore the nut already there, use it like a spacer.
Cool.
Srinath.

Offline NY Andrew

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serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2020, 09:15:24 pm »
How is that futile? I feel like that is the best solution as there is no way to just run a through-and-through bolt through the whole seat piece due to the end cap nut being enclosed and not open. I'd have to drill out the end cap nut to make it a straight-through-hole and then I'd still have to manage to even get it threaded (unless I use a smaller M8 bolt (which would rattle)) and then worry about how I'd get a socket or wrench on both ends of the seat at same time to remove/install the seat; if I'm understanding where you're going correctly as you're pretty much saying throw a bolt through and nut on the other end--which is a good idea if I accomplished all the above. Unless get a super small bolt to go through that hole at the end, but again it would rattle and small bolt could potentially snap and be hard to add/remove on both sides, but not a horrible idea at all.

I'm still thinking the Helicoil is best bet, as I could tap a new M10 thread in the frame, and with a M10x1.5 20mm instead of the OEM M10x1.5 <10mm bolt I'll have some extra length to get the angle correct and can use spacers/nut if necessary to close the 10mm extra length gap. And that would even bring it out maybe 10mm making it a bit easier to add/remove the bolt. Shoot I even got up tp 35mm length bolt if the threading all aligns correctly.

Just thought of another PRO to the Helicoil. I think the coil will stick out some since itís 13mm and the OEM bolt wasnít even 10mm. So the extra bit it sticks out, or even if I decided to leave some of it sticking out, will align BETTER with the seat catch since that was part of the issue there was about an inch gap between the OEM seat frame hole and where the seat was falling from it off to the side. So thatís another positive to the Helicoil. Seeing more good things about it the more I think on it. As long as it installs correctly and stays sturdy..
« Last Edit: June 18, 2020, 09:56:28 pm by NY Andrew »
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Offline DrM

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2020, 10:00:13 pm »
Another possible solution:  If you have a metric Tap & Die set, have a friend with one, or you are inclined to get one, then I'd try tapping in the next size up metric thread in the weld nut.  If the OEM bolt is damaged, then go to Lowes (or some store with a good selection of metric bolts, and find a bolt of the same length as the OEM bolt (or to close to it.)

Offline NY Andrew

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2020, 10:08:25 pm »
Another possible solution:  If you have a metric Tap & Die set, have a friend with one, or you are inclined to get one, then I'd try tapping in the next size up metric thread in the weld nut.  If the OEM bolt is damaged, then go to Lowes (or some store with a good selection of metric bolts, and find a bolt of the same length as the OEM bolt (or to close to it.)
Thatís a good idea too.

Think Iíll try the Helicoil first. If that doesnít work 10mm then do Tap & Die 12mm and get a longer 12mm bolt.

Helicoil seems to be the most ďsecureĒ option, but if it fails the only other option is to go up in size, and if it did fail then no reason to attempt round 2 Helicoil.

Although now Iím wonderingóif itís 10mm to begin with, will the 10mm Helicoil even for if Iím having to strip the threads back. Iím assuming it still would be 10mm as youíre inserting the 10mm coil so it maintains the 10mm sizing even after stripping back all those threads before installing said coil.

And yep would have to do that if I damage it too much. But that OEM bolt is welded to the frame. I canít just unscrew it (I tried with all my force to break it loose). But again, if I did get another bolt which wouldnít be an issue if I broke that OEM one loose, it wouldnít be the easiest to install/remove the seat with a tool on each side and the battery really is in the way on that side of the bike so not really sure how Iíd even get a tool in their simultaneously as the normal seat side.

Def good suggestions from you guys, really appreciating the assistance. Only 50 miles on this new baby and I already broke her lol. At least this seat was the last mod...I think...I hope...
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Offline NY Andrew

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serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2020, 10:15:59 pm »
Correction on anytime I mentioned M10.

M8 is the OEM THREAD size; 10mm is the socket/wrench it took on the hex head to remove it.

My bad if that confused anyone. Stressing way to hard over this. Will update over the weekend on what worked/didnít work.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2020, 10:24:39 pm by NY Andrew »
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Offline srinath

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #8 on: June 19, 2020, 08:58:01 am »
You're tapping threads into steel that's been welded onto a ear. Its originally work hardened and the welding process has hardened it further. Just use a smaller bolt and nut on the back side.
Cool.
Srinath.

Offline NY Andrew

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serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2020, 09:08:13 am »
You're tapping threads into steel that's been welded onto a ear. Its originally work hardened and the welding process has hardened it further. Just use a smaller bolt and nut on the back side.
Cool.
Srinath.
Oh so youíre thinking that I wonít be able to tap the OEM material? I mean if I was able to strip the threads Iíd think I could easily smooth them out and may have to work a bit to get the threads started but as long as I get the threads going to seat the Helicoil I should be good.

I see what youíre saying now. Guess Iíll find out tomorrow. You may have an ďI told you soĒ moment coming to me hah. If I did go your route I feel like I should get that OEM nut off somehow so I can use a proper sized bolt or ream it out wider. Still just worried about how hard installing/removing that would be if I went that route..
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Offline lunkhead

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #10 on: June 19, 2020, 09:56:52 am »
It might not have been your fault. I've seen Honda ATVs with welded on nuts that had the welds protrude into the hole and prevent the bolt from getting started. Now, I always test fit the hardware and run a tap thru them to clear the excess weld if the bolt can't be initially screwed in by hand. The worse offenders are their mounts for the skid plates. So far, I've only consistently seen it on the Hondas but it can happen with any welded on nut that hasn't been properly checked before leaving the factory.

The steel used for nuts usually isn't as hard as what's used for bolts. The carbon content is way too low for it to have much of a hardening effect if any at all.
« Last Edit: June 19, 2020, 10:19:50 am by lunkhead »
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Offline srinath

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2020, 10:14:02 am »
Take a little piece of bungee cord and put 2 metal loops around the of fugde Ö yours isn't an SCR - there is 2 big bolts there to bolt the seat hoop. You can put a bungee cord and pull it over the seat.

Cool.
Srinath.

Online strummer

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #12 on: June 19, 2020, 10:53:03 am »
https://images.app.goo.gl/K1cPpiYXh4sxjNLc6
You could use an insert like this, it goes from M10 to M8....
But if you are able make a M10 thread you might as well stick with that...
Just My 2c
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Online strummer

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #13 on: June 19, 2020, 10:56:40 am »
I have just noticed that the one on the picture is actually for wood  but obviously there are for metal too.
Peace & Anarchy

Offline NY Andrew

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Re: serious problem....stripped seat...
« Reply #14 on: June 19, 2020, 11:21:57 am »
Good idea. Actually wasnít aware of those. But a bit difficult to find for metal. Pretty much seems to accomplish same thing as Helicoil but with ez lock I feel it would still be difficult to even get that threaded in.

If OEM is M8 hole, should I tap for M10? Because I donít think attempting to re-make the M8 will work if Iím cutting back the OEM threads thus shorting the internal but then again the Helicoil will fill it up some to where itís M8 again?
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